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Men’s Style Terminology

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Sandwashed Silk:
A process by which the silk is treated to give it an even softer surface, almost suede-like in feel. This fabric is incredibly soft, has a matte surface and drapes beautifully.

Satin Weave:
A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns are interlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in this manner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect is further increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a low amount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns.

Scalloped Facing:
A border that contains continuous curves. All jackets and sportcoats have scalloped interior facings, also known as French facing. Many jackets also have the added detail of contrast piping along the finished edge of the lining.

A mid to lightweight fabric that has a characteristic permanent puckered striped effect created through releasing the tension on the loom during weaving. Southern states (humid climates) enjoy the seer sucker fabric during the summer months. Seer sucker suit also make terrific suit separates.

Seven Fold:
See “7-Fold”

Shadow Stripe:
An easy stripe pattern composed of elegant, tonal hues. Shadow stripes create an interesting pattern that easily pairs for dressy or casual occasions.

Smooth wool in a twill weave that has a characteristic alternating black-and-white pattern for a grayed effect. The surface is said to resemble a skin of a shark. Commonly found in suits.

Shawl Collar:
A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.

Shirt Jacket:
Jacket designed in the style of a shirt with a button-front closure, shirt collar and often a two-button adjustable cuff.

Back pleats are on woven shirts to allow ease of movement. Ken’s offers two types of back pleats: box pleat and side pleat. Box pleats are in the center back of the shirt and are used on all buttondown collar dress shirts, except trim fit. Side pleats are located on each side of the shirt back. They are used to allow greater ease of movement in the shoulders compared to a box pleat. All sport shirts, trim fit dress shirts and all other dress shirts, except the buttondown collar styles have side pleats.

Side Pleats:
See “Pleats”

Signature Collection:
A single brand image collection that is Exclusive. A distinctive yet timeless style. Polished elegance with a more singular attitude. Ken’s has created a private label that defines its brand through the signature collection.

A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the worm weaves its cocoon. Silk is soft, has a brilliant sheen, and is very strong and absorbent. A luxurious fabric, silk is lush to the touch.

Silk Shantung:
Medium weight, plain weave fabric made of raw silk. Known for its irregular surface created by slubbed yarns in the warp or filling direction. The slubs that appear randomly are part of the character and rustic beauty of this precious cloth. See “Slub”

Silver Plated:
A thin coating of silver over an alloy metal.

Single Breasted:
A jacket having one row of buttons on a narrow overlap. A single-breasted jacket and / or sportcoat are offered in one, two, or three-buttons. These buttons are generally uncovered. Fashion sees a 4 button single breasted for short lived periods.

Single Needle Tailoring:
Refers to a lockstitch which has two rows of single needle stitching locking the seam together as opposed to chain stitch.

Single Pleat:
See “Pleats”

Yarns produced by uneven twisting of fibers. At even, or uneven intervals the yarn is reduced, producing a soft, bulky area inbetween.

Soft Coat Construction:
Softer findings used inside for construction that drapes rather than traditional firm construction which hugs the body. Counterintuitively, a less constructed sportcoat actually takes longer to tailor. Exposed seams require precision inside and out.

Soft Collar:
Edge-stitched for a more European attitude, the soft collar is best suited to sport shirts. It is a shorter length than our typical straight collar with a softer interlining giving it a more casual presentation.

Space Dye:
Yarn dyed in single or multicolor spices along a given length of yarn.

These stylish, retro shoes are known for their two-tone color, similar to saddle shoes. Most spectators are wingtips, however they can also have cap toe or even loafer stying. They are predominantly seen in black and white but other color combinations update this classic style.

Split Toe:
Usually a lace-up shoe that has a seam coming down the center toe box that “splits” the shoe (or pieces of leather) in two.

Of the same cut as a suit jacket, a sportcoat is more casual and designed to be worn on its own, not as part of a suit.

Spun Silk:
Fibers shorter than the traditional filament silk are spun together creating a full bodied fabric with exceptional luster and texture. Spun silk’s superior shape retention and a natural resistance to pilling will keep you looking great all day.

Stain Resistant:
Treated so that moisture rolls off instantly, locked out.

Sterling Silver:
An alloy of silver containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. This gives the soft silver extra strength.

Stock Dyed:
Process of dying fibers before spinning into yarn.

Stretch Armhole:
A piece of stretch fabric that is sewn in the back of the jacket lining around the armhole. The stretch fabric allows for better ease of movement.

Suede is a type of finish which creates a napped surface on various types of materials such as wool, cotton, leather, and various synthetic materials. The short, close nap provides a smooth, soft hand.

Super Wools:
The story of this thread is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin wool lighter and finer than it’s ever been spun before. The various grades of cloth are referred to as Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s. Make Super 100s and Super 120s the mainstay of your wardrobe. They are durable, resilient, and today’s fabrics are superb. Treat the Super 150s and Super 180s as caviar, wonderful, but not to be worn every day, for these really are connoisseurs’ suits.

Swarovski® Crystal:
The luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related products produced by Swarovski® AG of Wattens, Austria.