Men’s Style Terminology

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Gabardine:
A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using more threads in the warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical).

Gauge:
A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1″-1.5″ area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from 9GG to 16GG.

Gingham:
A plain woven fabric typically with a checked pattern in white and another color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated with check, plaid, or stripe patterns.

Glen Plaid:
A fabric featuring a design of small and large woven checks.

Gold Plating:
A thin coating of gold over an alloy metal.

Grosgrain
A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is most often used to refer to ribbon.

Guabello®
A distinguished Italian mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, and over 150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world.

Haberdasher:
A person who owns or works in a shop that sells men’s clothes, or a person who owns or works in a shop that sells small items (such as needles and thread) that are used to make clothes.

Half-Canvas Construction:
The inner canvas layer of a suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. This all-important invisible element not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory for your shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.

Half-Windsor Knots:
The half-Windsor, also known as the single-Windsor, is a way of tying a necktie to produce a neat, triangular knot. It is larger than the four-in-hand knot and Pratt knot, but smaller than the Windsor knot. The half-Windsor is derived from the Windsor in that it is only brought up around the loop on one side rather than both. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics.

Half-Lining:
A half-lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half-lining is usually found on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn’t add weight to the jacket.

Hand:
The hand describes the qualities of a fabric that are revealed through the sense of touch, like softness or silkiness.

Handcrafted:
A work produced by hand labor. Our cufflinks from Megin Spivey, for example, are skillfully handcrafted.

Handmade:
Made by hand or hand-processed.

Heather Yarns:
A yarn consisting of differently-colored fibers blended together to give a soft, muted look. Heathered yarns got their name because of their purple color in early tweeds, which resembled heather-covered moors.

Herringbone:
A variation on a twill-weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed or broken at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling the skeleton of a herring fish.

Hidden Button-Down Collar:
Similar in appearance to the straight collar, a hidden button-down collar has buttons under the points to hold the collar in place. Selected Ken’s sport shirts have hidden button-down collars.

High-Twist:
Fabric made with high-twist yarn is cool to the touch and offers excellent elasticity, unparalleled drape, and superb wrinkle-resistance.

Houndstooth:
A fabric with distinctive broken checks resembling the jagged back teeth of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular in hunting clothing, is often found in shirts, sport coats, suits, and trousers.