Men’s Style Terminology

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Gabardine:
A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using more threads in the warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical.)

Gauge:
A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1″-1.5″ area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.

Gingham:
A plain woven fabric typically of a checked pattern in white and another color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated with check, plaid or stripe patterns.

Glen Plaid:
A fabric featuring a design of small and large woven checks.

Gold Plated:
A thin coating of gold over an alloy metal.

Grosgrain
A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is most often used to refer to ribbon.

Guabello®
Distinguished Italian Mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, Lanificio Gaubello’s® over 150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality. Singular comfort. Remarkable softness. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world.

Haberdasher:
1. a person who owns or works in a shop that sells men’s clothes
2. a person who owns or works in a shop that sells small items (such as needles and thread) that are used to make clothes

Half Canvas Construction:
The inner canvas layer of the suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. While you can’t see it, this all important part not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory for your shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.

Half Windsor Knots:
The half-Windsor knot, also known as the single Windsor knot, is a way of tying a necktie which produces a neat, triangular knot. It is larger than the four-in-hand knot and Pratt knot, but smaller than the Windsor knot. The half-Windsor is derived from the Windsor in that it is only brought up around the loop on one side rather than both. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics.

Half-Lining:
A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn’t add weight to the jacket.

Hand:
The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric. Such qualities as softness, silkiness, etc are revealed through the sense of touch. A Kenism: “Ken’s gives good hand”.

Handcrafted:
A work produced by hand labor. Our cuff-links from Megin Spivey are skillfully handcrafted.

Handmade:
Made by hand or hand process. Seven fold ties set themselves apart from a standard tie with their superior construction. Roughly a square yard of silk (usually two or more pieces sewn together) is folded to create seven sections of silk between the folds. The weight and body of this tie are derived from the layering of silk and typically requires an hour or more to construct. Every section is hand stitched with exquisite detail and constructed entirely out of the same silk fabric front to back. Seven fold ties are untipped or unlined, as they are made completely out of luxurious silk. These handmade ties were once a traditional craft that is now nearly all but forgotten in an effort for most tie makers to cut costs. All of our other handmade ties are cut by hand from generous amounts of silk. The generous pieces of silk allow all three parts of the tie to be cut “fully on the bias” (or diagonal) and also ensures that there is sufficient silk to create a deep fold at the back of the tie, which gives the tie a more luxurious feel. After cutting the three silk tie parts, the blade, neck and tail are joined together and tipping is then sewn into the blade and the tail of the tie.

Heather Yarns:
A yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, muted look. Heathered yarns got their name because of the purple color they portrayed when used in early tweeds which resembled heather-covered moors.

Herringbone:
A variation on a twill weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed, or broken at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling the skeleton of a herring fish.

Hidden Button-down Collar:
Similar in appearance to the straight collar, buttons hidden underneath the points hold the collar in place. A portion of our Ken’s sport shirts are selected to have hidden button down collars.

High Twist:
Fabric with the sense of cool touch and superb surface by using high twist yarn; good drape, excellent elasticity.Unparalleled drape and wrinkle resistance.

Houndstooth:
A fabric with distinctive broken checks that resembles the jagged back teeth of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular with hunting clothing, is often found in shirts, sport-coats, suits and trousers.