Men’s Style Terminology

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Cable Knit:
A knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

Calfskin:
A smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, durable leather from the hide of a calf. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

Camelhair:
A soft and luxurious fabric made with hair sheared from a Bactrian camel. Camelhair is most often used in the construction of suits and jackets. Similar to wool, it provides excellent warmth, but is lighter in weight.

​Camp Shirt:
A casual button-front shirt with a collar and no neckband. Its straight hem, boxy cut, and vented sides are suitable for wearing tucked in or untucked. Camp collars are usually seen on short-sleeve summer shirts.

Cap:
A form of headwear. The crown of a cap fits closer than that of a hat; caps do not have a brim, but usually do have a visor. There are multiple silhouettes of a cap for every head shape.

Cap Toe:
A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe for reinforcement and/or decoration; usually used on Oxford-style shoes.

Car Coat:
A comfortable three-quarter-length driving coat worn since the 1950s.

Cardigan:
A collarless sweater that buttons or zips down the front. Originally used as an extra layer for warmth under military uniforms. A classic piece for any wardrobe. Modern versions can have a shawl collar and horn buttons.

Cashmere:
An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit to produce sweaters, suits, coats, and other winter accessories.

Chalk Stripe:
Evenly-spaced, soft, thin, white or light stripes woven into dark fabric. A classic yet elegant look.

Chambray:
Similar to denim. A lightweight cotton fabric for shirts, traditionally in light colors.

Cheviot:
A woolen or worsted wool with a rough texture. The best are woven of fine worsted yarns in herringbone or other patterns. Seen in suit and jacket fabrics.

Chevron:
A pattern created from inverted V shapes. In the 1820s, chevron patterns characterized Art Nouveau design.

Chino:
A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface. Originally used in summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because of its durability. Washes and wears extremely well.

Club Collar:
Part of Eton College’s dress code in the 1800s, the rounded edges of a club collar look best with narrow faces. The softness of the points soften sharp vertical lines.

Collar Bar:
A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of a necktie.

Collar Stay:
A small tab that is inserted inside the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall better shape, fit, and roll of a collar. A power stay is placed in the collar, and then a magnet is fitted on the inside of the shirt to hold the collar down.

Color meanings: Accessories

  • Red – aggression, dominance, power, sexuality
  • Purple – inspiration, creativity, royalty, dignity, mystery
  • Pink – gentleness, sweetness, comfort, happiness
  • Blue – truth, trust, security, conservatism, masculinity
  • Green – growth, tranquility, freshness, rejuvenation, calming
  • Yellow – cheer, optimism, vitality, communication
  • Orange – warmth, energy, activity, excitement
  • White – innocence, cleanliness, truth, purity, sophistication

 

Color meanings: Suits

  • Brown / khaki / tan – reliability, durability, comfort, warmth
  • Gray / charcoal / silver – intelligence, confidence in the future, security
  • Black – sophistication, confidence, wealth, power (paired with white it conveys truth and confidence)
  • Navy – dependability, reliability, strength, trust, honesty

 
Comfort Waistband:
A elastic waistband that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/Cuff:
A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical), allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.

Contrasting Collar:
A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt. Usually found on Ken’s summer custom shirts.

CoolMax:
A licensed form of polyester developed by DuPont. It is a breathable and moisture-wicking fabric.

Corduroy:
A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row, known as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically used for pants, sport coats, and shirts. In Dallas, thin-wale corduroy is more common due to its lighter weight.

Cotton:
Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth, cotton has a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. There are several grades of cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island as its domestic counterpart. Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to its extra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket:
A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a “Fly Front.” See also “Placket.”

Crystal:
A clear, colorless glass of superior quality. Something a man would select to pour an aged scotch.

Cuff:
The end part of a sleeve, where the material of the sleeve is turned back or a separate band is sewn on. Ken’s Dress Shirts have six different available cuff styles.

Cummerbund:
A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo. The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold theater tickets, but are now said to be for “catching the crumbs.”

Cutaway Collar:
A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.

D-Ring:
An adjustable ring on a waistband, allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Dash Stripes:
A pattern of stripes in varying widths of two or more colors.

Deco:
A style of design marked by geometric motifs, bold colors, sharply-defined outlines, curvilinear and stylized forms.

Dobby:
Refers to the dobby attachment on a weaving machine, or fabric constructed with this attachment. Fabric made up of a decorative weave, usually characterized by small geometric or dot designs. Dobby fabrics are perfect for dress shirts, as they are generally fine and flat.

Donegal:
Dating back to the 1800s, a knit or tweed with coarse, nubby, multicolored yarns that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled effect.

Double-Breasted:
Refers to a sports coat, jacket, or similar garment with widely overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner button, called a jigger, is added to fasten the overlapped layers together from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are six-on-two, in which there are six buttons (four decorative and two functional), and six-on-one, in which only one of the six buttons is functional. New slim styles can be four-on-one, but with a trim lapel.

Double-Press Turnback Placket:
The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket, allowing stability and durability without the use of interlining. Ken’s uses this on all in-stock shirts. Also called “French Fly Front.” See also “Placket.”

Double-Reverse Pleats:
Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat has a one-inch depth, and the second pleat has a half-inch depth.

Double-Faced Fabric:
Fabric with a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer or “right” side. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up sleeves or layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt.

Driving Moccasin:
This shoe is characterized by a rubber outer sole that extends over the heel, usually in the form of rubber nubs. This allows the allows the heel to rest on a surface while driving (hence the name), without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.