Men’s Style Terminology

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Cable Knit:
A knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

A smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, durable leather from the hide of a calf. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

A soft and luxurious fabric made with hair sheared from a Bactrian camel. Camelhair is most often used in the construction of suits and jackets. Similar to wool, it provides excellent warmth, but is lighter in weight.

​Camp Shirt:
A button-front shirt with a collar and no neckband. The shirt produces a casual look with its straight hem, boxy cut, and vented sides for wear in or out. One mainly sees a camp collar on a short sleeve summer shirt.

A form of head-wear. The crown of a cap fits closer than that of a hat, and they do not have a brim, although a visor is usually present. There are multiple silhouettes of a cap for every head shape.

Cap Toe:
A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe for reinforcement and/or decoration; usually used on oxford-style shoes.

Car Coat:
A ¾ length coat that is historically known as comfortable option for driving since the 1950s.

A collarless sweater that buttons or zips down the front. Originally used as an extra layer for warmth under military uniforms. A classic piece for any wardrobe. Modern styles have a cardigan with a shawl collar and horn buttons.

An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit to produce sweaters, suits, coats, and other winter accessories.

Chalk Stripe:
Evenly spaced, soft, thin white or light stripes woven into dark fabric. A classic yet elegant look.

Similar to denim. A lightweight cotton fabric for shirts. Traditionally used in light colors.

A woolen or worsted wool with rough texture. The best are woven of fine worsted yarns in herringbone or other patterns. Seen in suit and jacket fabrics.

A pattern characterized by inverted V’s. In the 1820s Chevron patterns characterized Art Nouveau design.

A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface. Originally used as summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because their durability. Washes and wears extremely well.

Club Collar:
Part of Eton College’s dress code in the 1800’s, the rounded edges of the collar look best on thin faces. The softness of the points softening sharp vertical lines.

Collar Bar:
A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of a necktie.

Collar Stay:
A small tab that is inserted inside of the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall better shape, fit and roll of a collar. The newest edition is the Power Stay. A collar stay that is placed in the collar, and then a magnet is fitted on the inside of the shirt to hold the collar down.

Color meanings: Accessories

  • Red – Aggression, dominance, power, sexuality
  • Purple – Inspiration, creativity, royalty, dignity, mystery.
  • (Plum, violet, lavender, burgundy)
  • Pink – Gentleness, sweetness, comfort, happiness
  • Blue – Truth, trust, security, conservatism, masculine
  • Green – Growth, tranquility, freshness, rejuvenation, calming
  • Yellow – cheer, optimism, vitality, stimulates communication
  • Orange – warmth, energy, activity, excitement
  • White – Innocence, cleanliness, truth, purity, sophisticated


Color meanings: Suits

  • Brown – projects reliability, durability, comfort, warmth
  • (natural colors: khaki, tan, taupe, warm tones)
  • Gray – Associated with intelligence, confidence in the future, security
  • (Charcoal, Silver)
  • Black – Reflects sophistication, confidence, wealth, and power.
  • (Paired with white it conveys truth and confidence)
  • Navy – Dependability, reliability, strength, trust and honesty.

Comfort Waistband:
A waistband characterized by an elastic quality that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/Cuff:
A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical) allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.

Contrasting Collar:
A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt. Usually found on Ken’s summer custom shirts.

a licensed form of polyester developed by DuPont. It is a breathable and moisture-wicking fabric.

A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row, known as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically used for pants, sport coats, and shirts. Traditionally, in Dallas, corduroy in in the thin wale variety for a lighter weight.

Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today, cotton fibers have a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. There are several grades of cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island as its domestic counterpart. Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to its extra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket:
A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a “Fly Front.” See also “Placket”

A clear, colorless glass of superior quality. Something a man would select to pour an aged scotch.

Ken’s Dress Shirts have 7 different types of collar combinations, 6 cuff combinations, and 3 sleeve.

A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold theater tickets. Now we say, “to catch the crumbs”.

Cutaway Collar:
A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.

An adjustable ring on waistband allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Dash Stripes:
A pattern of stripes in varying widths of two or more colors.

A style of design marked by geometric motifs, bold colors, sharply defined outlines, curvilinear and stylized forms.

Refers to the dobby attachment on a weaving machine, or fabric constructed with this attachment. Fabric made up of a decorative weave, usually characterized by small geometric or dot designs. Dobby fabrics are perfect for dress shirts as they are generally fine and flat.

Dating back to the 1800s, a knit or tweed with coarse, nubby multicolored yarns that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled effect.

Double Breasted:
Refers to a sports-coat, jacket, or similar garment having a wide overlapping of the front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner-button, called the jigger, usually is added to fasten the over-lapped layers together, from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are 6-on-2 in which there are six buttons, four decorative and two functional and 6-on-1 in which only one of the six buttons is functional. New slim styles are showing a 4-on-1 but with a trim lapel.

Double Press Turnback Placket:
The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket allowing stability and durability without the use of interlining. Ken’s uses this on all in-stock shirts. Also called “French Fly Front”. See also “Placket”

Double Reverse Pleats:
Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat is a 1″ depth and second pleat is a ½” depth.

Double-Faced Fabric:
Having a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer, or right side. This makes for a polished look. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up sleeves or leaving the shirt unbuttoned layered over one of our comfortable tees.

Driving Moccasin:
This shoe is characterized by a rubber outer sole that extends over the heel, usually in the form of rubber nubs, thereby allowing the wearer to easily rest on a surface, such as while driving (hence the name), without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.