C–D | Ken's Man's Shop

Men’s Style Terminology

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Cable Knit:
A knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

A smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, durable leather from the hide of a calf. It does not scuff easily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

A soft and luxurious fabric made with hair sheared from a Bactrian camel. Camelhair is most often used in the construction of suits and jackets. Similar to wool, it provides excellent warmth, but is lighter in weight.

​Camp Shirt:
A casual button-front shirt with a collar and no neckband. Its straight hem, boxy cut, and vented sides are suitable for wearing tucked in or untucked. Camp collars are usually seen on short-sleeve summer shirts.

A form of headwear. The crown of a cap fits closer than that of a hat; caps do not have a brim, but usually do have a visor. There are multiple silhouettes of a cap for every head shape.

Cap Toe:
A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe for reinforcement and/or decoration; usually used on Oxford-style shoes.

Car Coat:
A comfortable three-quarter-length driving coat worn since the 1950s.

A collarless sweater that buttons or zips down the front. Originally used as an extra layer for warmth under military uniforms. A classic piece for any wardrobe. Modern versions can have a shawl collar and horn buttons.

An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit to produce sweaters, suits, coats, and other winter accessories.

Chalk Stripe:
Evenly-spaced, soft, thin, white or light stripes woven into dark fabric. A classic yet elegant look.

Similar to denim. A lightweight cotton fabric for shirts, traditionally in light colors.

A woolen or worsted wool with a rough texture. The best are woven of fine worsted yarns in herringbone or other patterns. Seen in suit and jacket fabrics.

A pattern created from inverted V shapes. In the 1820s, chevron patterns characterized Art Nouveau design.

A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface. Originally used in summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because of its durability. Washes and wears extremely well.

Club Collar:
Part of Eton College’s dress code in the 1800s, the rounded edges of a club collar look best with narrow faces. The softness of the points soften sharp vertical lines.

Collar Bar:
A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of a necktie.

Collar Stay:
A small tab that is inserted inside the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall better shape, fit, and roll of a collar. A power stay is placed in the collar, and then a magnet is fitted on the inside of the shirt to hold the collar down.

Color meanings: Accessories

  • Red – aggression, dominance, power, sexuality
  • Purple – inspiration, creativity, royalty, dignity, mystery
  • Pink – gentleness, sweetness, comfort, happiness
  • Blue – truth, trust, security, conservatism, masculinity
  • Green – growth, tranquility, freshness, rejuvenation, calming
  • Yellow – cheer, optimism, vitality, communication
  • Orange – warmth, energy, activity, excitement
  • White – innocence, cleanliness, truth, purity, sophistication


Color meanings: Suits

  • Brown / khaki / tan – reliability, durability, comfort, warmth
  • Gray / charcoal / silver – intelligence, confidence in the future, security
  • Black – sophistication, confidence, wealth, power (paired with white it conveys truth and confidence)
  • Navy – dependability, reliability, strength, trust, honesty

Comfort Waistband:
A elastic waistband that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/Cuff:
A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical), allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.

Contrasting Collar:
A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt. Usually found on Ken’s summer custom shirts.

A licensed form of polyester developed by DuPont. It is a breathable and moisture-wicking fabric.

A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row, known as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically used for pants, sport coats, and shirts. In Dallas, thin-wale corduroy is more common due to its lighter weight.

Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth, cotton has a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. There are several grades of cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island as its domestic counterpart. Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to its extra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket:
A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a “Fly Front.” See also “Placket.”

A clear, colorless glass of superior quality. Something a man would select to pour an aged scotch.

The end part of a sleeve, where the material of the sleeve is turned back or a separate band is sewn on. Ken’s Dress Shirts have six different available cuff styles.

A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo. The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold theater tickets, but are now said to be for “catching the crumbs.”

Cutaway Collar:
A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.

An adjustable ring on a waistband, allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Dash Stripes:
A pattern of stripes in varying widths of two or more colors.

A style of design marked by geometric motifs, bold colors, sharply-defined outlines, curvilinear and stylized forms.

Refers to the dobby attachment on a weaving machine, or fabric constructed with this attachment. Fabric made up of a decorative weave, usually characterized by small geometric or dot designs. Dobby fabrics are perfect for dress shirts, as they are generally fine and flat.

Dating back to the 1800s, a knit or tweed with coarse, nubby, multicolored yarns that are combined with single-colored yarns to produce a mottled effect.

Refers to a sports coat, jacket, or similar garment with widely overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner button, called a jigger, is added to fasten the overlapped layers together from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are six-on-two, in which there are six buttons (four decorative and two functional), and six-on-one, in which only one of the six buttons is functional. New slim styles can be four-on-one, but with a trim lapel.

Double-Press Turnback Placket:
The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket, allowing stability and durability without the use of interlining. Ken’s uses this on all in-stock shirts. Also called “French Fly Front.” See also “Placket.”

Double-Reverse Pleats:
Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat has a one-inch depth, and the second pleat has a half-inch depth.

Double-Faced Fabric:
Fabric with a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer or “right” side. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up sleeves or layering an unbuttoned shirt over a t-shirt.

Driving Moccasin:
This shoe is characterized by a rubber outer sole that extends over the heel, usually in the form of rubber nubs. This allows the allows the heel to rest on a surface while driving (hence the name), without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.